Plus, if you've installed tile previously, then chances are you already own most of the tools needed to install marble tile. Marble floor tile like all floor tile requires a smooth, flat, water-resistant base for installation.
In most cases, this will require removing the existing floor covering down to the subfloor layer, which is usually plywood or MDF. Once you have exposed the wood subfloor, cover it with a layer of cement board to add both stiffness and moisture resistance to the floor. Cement board doesn't stop moisture from passing through it—it's not a vapor or moisture barrier—but it won't be damaged by moisture the same way wood is.
Cement board also is engineered to bond very well with thin-set mortar adhesive, which you will use to install your marble tile. Because marble is heavy, your subfloor should be extremely sturdy.
This may require some structural work to reinforce the joists supporting the subfloor before installing tiles. Your installation will look best if the tiles radiate outward from the center of the room, rather than starting abruptly from one of the walls. In order to achieve this symmetrical effect, you need to create reference lines on the surface of the cement board underlayment.
Find the center of two opposing walls and use a chalk line to mark a path between them, dividing the room in half. Then, measure to the center of that line, and use a T-square to draw a perpendicular line at the mark, using a pencil. Snap a chalk line across the floor using the pencil line as a guide, dividing the floor into four equal quadrants. Check your layout by test-fitting full tiles along both reference lines from wall to wall.
If the last row of tiles against any of the walls is less than a few inches wide, adjust your chalk line grid as needed so that the tiles along the walls are an acceptable width, based on your preference. Mix thin-set mortar according to the manufacturer's instructions. Mix only a little bit at a time, and make more when necessary.
Using a notched trowel, spread the adhesive onto the floor, starting where the reference lines intersect at the center of the room. As you work, use the notched edge of the trowel to create grooves in the mortar. This will increase the adhesive strength of the bond between the cement board and the bottom of the marble. Spread enough mortar to easily cover the bottom of a single tile, and make sure that its entire surface is notched. Gently press the first tile into place, aligning two of its edges with the chalk lines in the corner of the layout.
As you press it down, twist the tile slightly to ensure that it properly sets in the mortar bed below. A rubber mallet is a large hammer with a soft rubber head. Use this to lightly tap the surface of the marble tile, pressing it more firmly into the mortar. However, be careful not to tap too hard, as marble is a relatively soft material and can crack rather easily.
Avoid moving the tile as you are setting it. Continue to spread mortar for each tile, then place the tile before moving on to the next one. Follow the reference line towards the wall, using it as a guide to keeping your placement straight.
Use tile spacers to maintain consistent spacing between tiles. The spacers should be selected for whatever width you have chosen for the joints. Spacers help ensure the grout lines are sharp and uniform. After placing every three or four tiles, use a 2-by-4 to ensure that they are at a uniform height. Place the board across the tiles, and tap the board lightly with the rubber mallet. If the marble is polished you may want to cover the front of the wood with a piece of carpet to prevent scratches.
You can also do this across multiple rows when you have more tiles installed. Once you reach the wall with the first row, take note of the gap at the end that may require a custom-cut piece.
Then, move back to the center point of the reference lines, and continue to place tiles adjacent to the first row. Take a moment after every few tiles to ensure that all of your lines meet up and the entire floor looks sharp and consistent. As you work, be careful not to step on any installed tiles.
Typically, marble floor tile should be allowed to set for at least 48 hours after installation. Because of this, you have to be careful not to tile yourself into a corner that you can not escape from. Be sure to leave a traffic path for yourself; the last quadrant you work on should be the one where the door is located. Use a wet tile saw to cut tiles as needed. Smaller, portable saws are able to handle basic straight cuts on tiles up to 12 inches.
Rental charges may include a flat fee for the saw plus a prorated charge for wear on the diamond blade. For difficult cuts, or if you prefer not to use a saw, ask your tile supplier if they will cut pieces for you. If you need to cut holes in marble tile, such as may be necessary if you have plumbing pipes coming up through the floor, special hole saws with diamond-encrusted cutting edges can be used. The hole saws are simply mounted in a power drill.
Make sure to cut at a slow speed to prevent overheating the hole saw. You want the marble tiles that you install to radiate outwards from the center of the room, rather than starting abruptly from one of the walls. In order to achieve this effect you need to draw a reference line on the surface of the underlayment. Find the center of two opposing walls and use a line chalk to draw a path in between them. Then measure to the center of that line, and use a T square to make an intersecting chalk path to the other two opposite walls.
After determining the center of the room with the reference lines, you can begin to experiment with a layout design. Starting at the center of the room and working your way outward, lay down one row of tile along the reference line. Blend and adjust the tile placement until you achieve an optimal look.
Once you have decided on the tile layout, mix the adhesive, also called mortar or thin-set, that is recommended for your tile. Using a notched trowel, apply thin-set to a small area on the floor for installation. Use the notched edge of the trowel to create grooves in the thin-set. Creating grooves will increase the strength of the adhesive. To continue the installation process spread the thin-set on one tile and place it where desired.
Repeat this processes, working with one tile at a time, until you reach the wall. To keep the placement straight, use the reference lines as a guide. Also, use tile spacers to keep the layout consistent, as well as create uniform grout lines. Once you reach the wall, take note of any odd angles or gaps that require custom cut pieces. Continue the tile installation by returning to the center point and laying out the second row of tile adjacent to the first.
In most marble flooring installations you will need custom cut pieces in order to stretch the floor out to meet the walls. You will also need to fit tiles around architectural features in the room, as well as permanent appliances and equipment. The way to do this is with the use of a wet saw. Carefully measure and make a straight line with a pencil on marble tiles prior to cutting. If a wet saw is unable to make a specific cut, use a 4-inch grinder to cut curves, cutouts, or hard to reach angles.
Wipe any moisture from the tiles, and install.
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