Install the Carpet Tack Strips Photo by Ryan Hulvat After removing all the furniture and old floor covering from the room, cover the wood subfloor with carpet padding. Tack down the padding with a stapler. Using a hammer, nail down tack strips around the perimeter of the room.
Cut the 1-inch-wide strips to length using a small handsaw or special wood snips. One row of tack strip is sufficient to hold down most types of carpeting, but for heavily woven Berbers and woolen carpets, it's best to install two rows of tack strips side by side. This double-strip trick will provide extra "bite" to prevent the carpeting from pulling loose or shifting out of position.
If the carpeting has a particular pattern or texture, be sure it's oriented correctly in the room. Use a knee kicker to force the carpeting into position against one wall. Move along the wall, striking the kicker with your knee until you've pulled out all wrinkles and slack.
Switch to a lever-activated stretcher to pull the carpet tight to the wall. Use your hand to firmly press the carpeting down onto the pointy spikes of the tack strips below. Check to be sure the oversized carpeting laps up onto each wall by at least a few inches. Trim the edges Photo by Ryan Hulvat With the carpeting secured along one wall, use a special carpet-edging tool to trim the carpet flush with the baseboard molding.
Keep the metal shoe of the tool pressed tightly against the carpeting, and keep the carpeting tight against the baseboard. If you don't have an edging tool, you can trim the carpeting with a utility knife, but be sure to use a brand-new blade and change it as soon as it starts to get dull.
Before pulling away the excess strip of carpeting, check to be sure it isn't still attached at any point. If you pull on the strip while it's still connected, even if just by a thread, you could unwind a fiber from the carpeting. To learn more about carpet and backings, please contact a sales representative or complete our Quote Request Form.
Call or email info continentalflooring. One call does it all! If you would like to receive additional information about our products and services, sign up for our Newsletter. Standard Backing: Usually made from natural jute fiber or manmade polypropylene which is a synthetic thermoplastic resin Available in woven and non-woven constructions Lightweight, yet stable Mildew resistant Ideally used in low traffic settings Economical Usually found on broadloom carpeting Limited on warranties Performance Backing — This backing represents a higher standard of backing and delivers more dimensional stability and strength than Standard Backing.
Performance Backing: Stops zippering and edge raveling Has high tuft bind properties Dense latex backing Holds carpet yarns in place for better performance Recommended in high traffic areas Enhanced warranties up to 10 year limited Used on broadloom carpeting Ideal for direct glue installations High Performance Backing — This backing is usually unitary. Continental Offers Shipboard Flooring! Part One. The second major category of carpet backing chemistries is polyurethanes, which consists of polyurethanes and urethanes.
They are backing structures formed by reactive chemistry. Once formed, polyurethanes cannot be reheated and softened again. Like latex, polyurethanes also have limited recyclability and cannot be recycled into new backings. Polyurethanes have a distinct molecular structure that creates an extremely strong material which holds up to the toughest abuse. It is also ideal for forming a polymeric bond between a primary backing and a secondary backing, boosting the carpet performance over the years.
Finally, because it has such strong adhesion properties, the yarn of the carpet remains tightly woven, increasing the tuft bind, or the amount of force it takes to lift a carpet fiber. It is affordable, provides good moisture protection and has excellent edge-ravel protection. Most of the time polyurethane backings are cushions so they provide comfort underfoot. Polyurethane backings offer good warranties because of their durable nature; however, they may be more costly to install than other backing systems because of the time involved.
Additionally, polyurethane backings are subject to possible delamination in modular backings, have limited recyclability and seam welding is not possible.
Without welded seams, you cannot get a true wall-to-wall moisture barrier. The third major class of backing chemistries is thermoplastics. There are three different types of thermoplastics, each with different characteristics. All thermoplastics can be heated up and then cooled many times and have similar performance features. They all have dimensional stability and have excellent delamination and edge ravel strength. Additionally, some provide an impervious moisture barrier.
The thermoplastics category can be split into 2 subgroups. Group 1 is hotmelts and polyolefins. These are materials that become soft when heated and solid when cooled to room temperature. This process can be repeated over and over again, meaning they can be recycled into new backings. PVC can also be heated and cooled many times, so it can be recycled into new backings. Thermoplastic backings also use less material, which can help conserve resources and energy, and result in a lighter weight carpeting, which would in turn require less cost and fuel for shipping and allow for easier installation.
This includes ethylene vinyl acetate compounded with resins, polyvinyl butyrate, polyethylene, and polyvinyl chloride. The nature of thermoplastic backings is that they are recyclable. One main subcategory of thermoplastics is hotmelt backing systems. Hold the utility knife at a degree angle while you cut.
Tape the carpet down after you have finished cutting the edges. Go around the perimeter, lift the edges of the carpet, and pull the backing off the tape at the same time, then press the carpet onto the tape. Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities.
Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies. By Chris Deziel.
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